Diamond Cut

by admin on January 25, 2009

Diamond Cut

In the strictest definition of the term, “cut” is not the same thing as “shape” – for example, the most popular cut for a diamond is the round brilliant cut, but there are also round Swiss cuts, round Old European cuts, and round 144-facet cuts. For the most part, however, the terms are used interchangeably, including on this site.


The 58-facet round brilliant cut is the most popular because of its fire and brilliance. (These terms describe the intensity of the color and brightness of the light one sees in a diamond.) This is achieved by cutting the stone to very exacting mathematically-determined proportions so as much light as possible is reflected out the top of the diamond.

The cut of a diamond refers not only to the shape of the diamond and number of facets, but also to the quality of the cut. A diamond with uneven or poorly proportioned facets won’t be given the same grade of cut as an ideally proportioned and masterfully cut stone. This information will be found on the certificate of a certified diamond.

Although most diamonds on the market today are round brilliants, there are many different shapes available. The following chart shows some of the most popular shapes:

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Diamond Clarity

by admin on January 25, 2009

Diamond Clarity

The clarity of a diamond refers to how clear, or "clean" the diamond is. The more "clean" the diamond, the higher the price. Most diamonds have "imperfections" in them. The clarity scale is a measure of the severity of those imperfections or "inclusions" as it is known in the trade.


For example, a deep break in a diamond which is not that visible when you look at the stone face-up, could sometimes have a greater impact on the clarity of a stone, than a small black crystal which you can see very clearly face-up.

The following is the GIA Diamond clarity-scale:

No two diamonds are alike. A diamond’s most distinguishing characteristics are its inclusions, marks that are often invisible to the naked eye. However, under a jeweler’s magnifying loupe or microscope they can look like crystals, tiny rivers, or clouds. A diamond’s clarity is determined by the presence or absence of inclusions–fewer inclusions mean better clarity–and how visible they are. The greater a diamond’s clarity, the greater its brilliance and value. A diamond categorized as internally flawless will have no inclusions, but this is extremely rare.

Diamond Clarity

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Diamond Cut

by admin on January 25, 2009

Diamond Cut

In the strictest definition of the term, “cut” is not the same thing as “shape” – for example, the most popular cut for a diamond is the round brilliant cut, but there are also round Swiss cuts, round Old European cuts, and round 144-facet cuts. For the most part, however, the terms are used interchangeably, including on this site.


The 58-facet round brilliant cut is the most popular because of its fire and brilliance. (These terms describe the intensity of the color and brightness of the light one sees in a diamond.) This is achieved by cutting the stone to very exacting mathematically-determined proportions so as much light as possible is reflected out the top of the diamond.

The cut of a diamond refers not only to the shape of the diamond and number of facets, but also to the quality of the cut. A diamond with uneven or poorly proportioned facets won’t be given the same grade of cut as an ideally proportioned and masterfully cut stone. This information will be found on the certificate of a certified diamond.

Although most diamonds on the market today are round brilliants, there are many different shapes available. The following chart shows some of the most popular shapes:

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Engagement Rings

by admin on January 25, 2009

Engagement Ring

Especially in Western cultures, an engagement ring is a ring indicating that the person wearing it is engaged to be married. In the United Kingdom, and North America, engagement rings are traditionally worn only by women, and rings can feature gemstones. In other cultures men and women wear matching rings. In some cultures, engagement rings are also used as wedding rings.
Conventionally, the woman’s ring is presented as a betrothal gift by a man to his prospective spouse while he proposes marriage or directly after she accepts his marriage proposal. It represents a formal agreement to future marriage. Rings can be bought by the man, the couple together, or by each partner for the other.


In North America and the United Kingdom, it is customarily worn on the left hand ring finger. This custom may have its origins in an ancient Egyptian myth that the finger contained a vein leading directly to the heart, or it may simply be due to the fact that the heart lies slightly to the left side of the body. Conversely, in Poland and Ukraine, it is customary for the ring to be worn on the right hand. In Germany, the ring is worn on the left hand while engaged, but moved to the right hand when married. Similar traditions purportedly date to classical times, dating back from an early usage reportedly referring to the fourth finger of the left hand as containing the vena amoris or “vein of love”.
Before agreeing to marry, a couple may choose to buy and wear pre-engagement rings, also called promise rings. After marrying, the couple may wear both engagement rings and wedding rings, or just their wedding rings, as they prefer. Some brides have their engagement and wedding rings permanently soldered together after marriage.

Betrothal rings were used during Roman times, but weren’t generally revived in the Western world until the 13th century. The first well-documented use of a diamond ring to signify engagement was by the Archduke Maximilian of Austria in imperial court of Vienna in 1477, upon his betrothal to Mary of Burgundy.
Before the 20th century, other types of betrothal gifts were common. Before the end of the 19th century, the bride-to-be frequently received a sewing thimble rather than a engagement ring. This practice was particularly common among religious groups that shunned jewelry. Engagement rings didn’t become standard in the West until the end of the 19th century, and diamond rings didn’t become common until the 1930s. Now, 80% of American women are offered a diamond ring to signify engagement.

In the 20th century, if he could afford it, the typical Western groom privately selected and purchased an engagement ring, which he then presented to his desired bride when he proposed marriage. More recently, couples frequently select an engagement ring together. In countries where both partners wear engagement rings, matching rings may be selected and purchased together. In the United States and Canada, where only women commonly wear engagement rings, women sometimes present their partners with an engagement ring.
Like all jewelry, the price for an engagement ring can vary considerably depending on the materials used, the design of the ring, whether it includes a gemstone, the value of any gemstone, and the seller. The idea that a man should spend two to three months’ personal wages for an engagement ring originated from De Beers marketing materials in the early 20th century, in an effort to increase the sale of diamonds. In 2007, the average cost of an engagement ring in USA as reported by the industry was US$2,100.
The price of the gemstones, if any, in the ring depends on the type and quality of the gem. Diamonds have a standardized description that values them according to their carat weight, color, clarity and cut. Other gemstones, such as sapphires, rubies, moissanite, emeralds, have different systems. These may be chosen to honor a family tradition, to use family heirlooms, to be unique, to be socially responsible, to fit the individual’s stylistic preferences, or to manage cost. Synthetic stones and diamond substitutes such as cubic zirconias are also popular choices that reduce cost while maintaining the desired appearance.

In some states of the United States, engagement rings are considered “conditional gifts” under the legal rules of property. This is an exception to the general rule that gifts cannot be revoked once properly given. See, for example, the case of Meyer v. Mitnick, 625 N.W.2d 136 (Michigan, 2001), whose ruling found the following reasoning persuasive: “the so-called ‘modern trend’ holds that because an engagement ring is an inherently conditional gift, once the engagement has been broken, the ring should be returned to the donor. Thus, the question of who broke the engagement and why, or who was ‘at fault,’ is irrelevant. This is the no-fault line of cases.”
One case in New South Wales, Australia ended in the man suing his former fiancée because she threw the ring away, after he told her she could keep it even though the marriage plans had fallen through. The Supreme Court of New South Wales held that, despite what the man said, the ring remained a conditional gift (partly because his saying that she could keep it reflected his desire to salvage the relationship) and she was ordered to pay him its AUD$15,250 cost.
Tradition generally holds that if the betrothal fails because the man himself breaks off the engagement, the woman is not obliged to return the ring. Legally, this condition can be subject to either a modified or a strict fault rule. Under the former, the fiancé can demand the return of the ring unless he breaks the engagement. Under the latter, the fiancé is entitled to the return unless his actions caused the breakup of the relationship, the same as the traditional approach. However, a no-fault rule is being advanced in some jurisdictions, under which the fiancé is always entitled to the return of the ring. The ring only becomes the property of the woman when marriage occurs. An unconditional gift approach is another possibility, wherein the ring is always treated as a gift, to be kept by the fiancée whether or not the relationship progresses to marriage. Recent court rulings have determined that the date in which the ring was offered can determine the condition of the gift. e.g. Valentine’s Day and Christmas are nationally recognized as gift giving holidays. A ring offered in the form of a Christmas present will likely remain the personal property of the recipient in the event of a breakup.
In the United Kingdom, the gift of an engagement ring is presumed to be an absolute gift to the fiancée. This presumption may be rebutted however by proving that the ring was given on condition (express or implied) that it must be returned if the marriage did not take place, for whatever reason. This was decided in the case Jacobs v Davis [1917] 2 KB 532.

Engagement rings, like any other kind of jewelry, come in many different styles.
In the United States, where engagement rings have been traditionally worn only by women, diamonds have widely featured in engagement rings since the middle of the 20th century. Solitaire rings have one single diamond. These traditional engagement rings may have different prong settings and bands. Another major category is engagement rings with side stones. Rings with a larger diamond set in the middle and smaller diamonds on the side fit under this category. Three-stone diamond engagement rings, sometimes called trinity rings or trilogy rings, are rings with three matching diamonds set horizontally in a row with the bigger stone in the center. The three diamonds on the ring are typically said to represent the couple’s past, present, and future, but other people give religious significance to the arrangement.
A wedding set, or bridal set, includes an engagement ring and a wedding band that match as a set. In some cases, the engagement ring looks “incomplete”; it is only when the two halves are assembled that the ring looks whole. In other cases, a wedding set consists of two rings that match stylistically and are worn stacked, although either piece would look appropriate as a separate ring. Although the wedding band is not to be worn until the wedding day, the two rings are usually sold together as a wedding set. After the wedding, the bride may choose to have the two pieces welded together, to increase convenience and reduce the likelihood of losing one ring. A trio ring set includes a ladies engagement ring, ladies wedding band and a men’s wedding band. These sets often have matching rings and are lower in price.
In Nordic countries, engagement rings are worn by both men and women. Traditionally they are plain gold bands, although more ornate designs and other materials are gaining popularity. The engagement rings resemble the wedding bands sold in the United States, whereas womens wedding rings often resemble US engagement rings.

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Cabochon Cutting

by admin on January 25, 2009

Cabochon Cutting

A cabochon or cabachon, from the Middle French caboche (head), is a gemstone which has been shaped and polished as opposed to faceted. The resulting form is usually a convex top with a flat bottom. Cutting en cabochon is usually applied to opaque gems, while facetting is usually applied to transparent stones. Hardness is also taken into account as softer gemstones with a hardness lower than 7 on the Mohs hardness scale are easily scratched, mainly by silicon dioxide in dust and grit. This would quickly make translucent gems unattractive—instead they are polished as cabochons, making the scratches less evident.


In the case of asteriated stones such as star sapphires and chatoyant stones such as cat’s eye chrysoberyl, a domed cabochon cut is used to show the star or eye, which would not be visible in a facetted cut.

The usual shape for cutting cabochons is an ellipse. This is because the eye is less sensitive to small asymmetries in an ellipse, as opposed to a uniformly round shape, such as a circle, and because the elliptical shape, combined with the dome, is attractive.

The procedure is to cut a slab of the rough rock, then to stencil a shape from a template. The slab is then trimmed to near the marked line using a diamond blade saw—called a trim saw—and sometimes followed by “nibbling” to the line. The purpose of nibbling is to speed the shaping of the material when using silicon carbide grinding wheels. Most lapidary workshops and production facilities have moved away from silicon carbide to diamond grinding wheels or flat lap disks.

Once the piece is trimmed and nibbled, it is usually mounted on a handle to assist manipulation. This procedure is called “dopping”; it is normally done by adhering the stone with hard wax onto a length of wooden dowel called a “dop stick”. The piece is then ground to the template line, the back edges may be bevelled, and finally the top is sanded and polished to a uniform dome.

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Tumbling Cutting

by admin on January 25, 2009

Tumbling Cutting

The simplest form of gem cutting is tumbling. This is where the rough material is put in a revolving barrel with abrasives. Progressively finer abrasives are used, until a polish is obtained. This process closely resembles what happens to rocks in a stream or on the beach, except that the level of polish is much higher.

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Faceting Cutting

by admin on January 25, 2009

Faceting Cutting

Faceting is the style of cutting that has the greatest profit potential. If you can envision a diamond, you are looking at a faceted gem. The surface of a diamond is covered with several geometrically arranged, flat surfaces. Each of these flat surfaces is called a facet. The gem is faceted, by a faceter on a faceting machine.

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Carving Cutting

by admin on January 25, 2009

Carving Cutting

Carving is the most challenging of the lapidary arts and there are very few recognized experts in the field. To be successful, one must have a distinctive artistic sense and a thorough understanding of the principles of lapidary. Unlike working in wood or metal, the materials present definite limits as to what can be done.

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Types of Diamond Cuts Explained

by admin on January 25, 2009

Types of Diamond Cuts Explained

For many people, purchasing a diamond is just as important a decision as what purchasing a home is, but irrespective of whether or not you feel the same way, there’s no getting away from the fact that purchasing a diamond is an important decision. Of course, when one considers just how many different cuts, shapes, and styles are available, it’s hardly surprising that so many people find the experience to be rather daunting. Obviously you are the only person in the world that knows which stone is the perfect stone for you, but you may find it easier to choose one if you have a little knowledge regarding some of the more popular cuts and styles.


To start with, let’s briefly talk about the process to polish the diamonds. They don’t look like the finished products you see in the store, they are rough and look similar to quartz crystal. They are taken and cut down with diamond saws, and grinders until the are a fraction of their original size, and then the jeweler cuts the facets, cuts and polishes them into what you see today. This is just a brief look at this aspect of the diamond making process.

The are around 11 different traditional diamond cuts, and 4 newer styles. There are round, heart shaped, square cut and its different variations. The round cuts are even shaped differently, with Marquise, oval and pear shaped. The newer styles include the Leo, which has a slightly flatter head that the traditionally shaped round style. The Elexese cut, which has 60/60 proportion facets. A specialty cut by William Goldberg, called the Ashoka, is the latest version of the traditional cushion cut. By rounding the edges to the usual rectangular shape, it is a more modern option to the more traditional cuts.

The important thing to know about diamonds is the facets. The more faceted it is the more brilliantly it will look. The larger number of facets a diamond has, the more brilliant it will appear and the more valuable it will be. An ideally cut diamond will have around 58 facets, but they also go as high as the 66 facet Leo Diamond cut. The more facets, and more brilliance, the higher the cost will be.

Round diamonds and the squarish Princess cut, a square diamond, are the most popular with most couples getting married. The round cut is the has the classic elegance, and what woman can resist the Princess cut. The Marquise design is a oblong with pointed ends, and can be found as a solitary stone, or can also be used to bring out smaller cut diamonds. Interestingly enough, this style was originally commissioned by King Louis XIV of France and if rumors or anything to go by, it was inspired by the smile of Marquise de Pompadour.

Generally, grading diamonds is not an expertise that most of us have. When a couple walks into a jewelry store to look at an engagement ring, or something just as special, there are many other things on their minds than just picking out a ring. However, there are definitely some things to know when going in that can help you make a more informed decision about an investment that hopefully will last a lifetime.

Different cuts effect the diamonds brilliance, and the shape of the diamond is only one aspect of a quality diamond. Shapes also can effect its beauty and shine. Shapes like the pear, heart shape in sometimes even the Marquise sacrifice brilliance for their shape. Some shapes like the emerald, and Asscher may even make any flaws or imperfections stand out more than some other styles. It is a good thing to check these closely.

Essentially, the more clarity a diamond has, the better its quality. Make sure that your diamonds are the clearest possible to bring out the most sparkle. While the carat of the stone is less important than a good cut, but there are certain shapes, oval, and the emerald, just to name a few, that are designed to give the illusion of a bigger size. This may be a big determining factor in your purchase.

One of the major considerations in purchasing diamond jewelry is the price. The more unique the design, the more facets there are and any specialty cuts are going to be more expensive than more traditional styles. This is one factor that needs to be considered when purchasing a diamond ring.

There are several other things to consider. Whether you choose to buy a stone that is already in a setting, or buying the stone and ring separately and putting them together. Many jewelers are flexible and can change the setting on the stone if needed, but will often incur additional costs.

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Top 5 Countries in Diamond Cutting

by admin on January 25, 2009

Top 5 Countries in Diamond Cutting

There are not many countries and regions which are capable of processing diamond until today. They are mainly Belgium, Israel, Former Russia, India, America and China. Russia, New York in America, Antwerp in Belgium, Tel Aviv in Israel and Bombay in India etc. are generally considered as the diamond processing center in the world, so what is called the Belgium cutting, Israel cutting etc. all express the schools of diamond cutting with each distinct features.


The Antwerp in Belgium is famous for its excellent fire color. The diamond processed by Belgium includes round diamond and diamond with various styles of cutting and they have the size from 1 cent to 10 carat. The round diamond usually have 57 facets, radio and finish are also excellent. The bottom end of some are polished into small white particles to prevent being damaged when packing the diamond. They can also carve a printing into the processing diamond with icy laser according to the request of customer. The diamond cutting tool of Belgium spreads all over the world nowadays. Russia uses its own automatic machine; the ratio of processed diamond is within a good range. According to the traditional addressing, it is called the Soviet Union cutting. The feature of Soviet Union cutting diamond is that they are all round cutting diamond with 57 facets, even bottom end, meticulous waist, taking on semi-transparent grinding shape, but usually there is parallel thin lines on the surface, and the weight of diamond is from 1 cent to 10 carat.

The diamond processing industry of Israel is very advanced, but the processing level is not average and they often use traditional tools to polish. The waists of some diamonds are rough, the symmetry is not good, the shadow of pavilion is not regular, and bottom corner is deep and shallow, affecting the fire color of diamond to some extent. The processed diamonds are mainly from 10 cents to 50 cents.

The automatic circular machines for processing the diamond in America are mainly introduced from Israel. The diamond processed includes round diamond and diamond with various styles of cutting. They mainly process big diamond with above 1.00 carat. The round diamond with the style of American cutting have 58 facets, the bottom end is grinded even and polished into transparent octagon, the waist is grinded into transparent facet. The symmetry of diamond processed by American is not as good as that of Soviet and Belgium cutting.

The diamond processing industry of India shares about 50% of world market nowadays. The way of processing the diamond in India is mainly the traditional family workshops, employing nearly 1 million persons. The polishing effect of the diamond, processed by semi-automatic machine, is not good, the waist is thick, and the symmetry is bad, affecting the fire color. The processed diamonds are mainly small diamonds and they are usually within 20 cents.

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